Saturday, October 16, 2010

Roof of Africa. Hiking Kilimanjaro





If you are deciding to travel to eastern Africa and want a fun semi-technical adventure, you can't miss the chance at standing at the top of Africa. At 19,320 feet, you will get the best view on the continent, test your limits, travel through four climate zones, can cross off one of the seven highest summits of the seven continents, and have an amazing experience you will never forget. Kili is the highest free standing mountain in the world, and climbing it you get that sense that you are standing on top of the world.

There are six main routes that you can choose to take to the summit. Lemosho, Machame, Rongai, Umbwe, Mweka, and Marangu.


The Marangu route is the route I picked. It is nicknamed the Coca Cola Route because it's the route most tourists take. It also allows you the comfort of sleeping in huts rather than tents. While I like a challenge, I decided to do the most common route because it was the cheapest and the fastest way up the mountain. I had 7 days before I had to catch a flight in Nairobi, so I took a chicken bus from Kenya, down to Arusha Tanzania, and began my 70 km round trip to the top of Africa.

While the hike isn't very challenging the altitude still claims many victims, so an inexperienced hiker has to respect the mountain. As you climb up the trail you are reminded about the dangers and altitude ahead, as other hikers are being rushed down the trail because of medical issues by a cart.

It was always intimidating reaching a hut and talking to other climbers on the way down who were wacked out by altitude sickness. One hiker kept repeating how confused he was, and told us how emotional he got hiking. He made it to the top, but cried the whole way. So remember to "Poli Poli" as my guide always yelled to me, which in Swahili means slowly slowy.


My Guide Ashard.

Day One, started out about 2 p.m. It can become frustrating waiting for your permit to go through, at the park entrance. Once you get to begin your hike, you start off in the forest making your way up beautiful lush terrain. Keep your eye out for monkeys. First day takes about 5 hours to reach the first hut.




Mandara Hut. First Hut on Marangu route. After arriving and checking in. Go explore the area with a short hike.


End of day one.


Day two begins with more hiking through the forest but the forest begins to disappear. The trees get smaller and smaller.


As you climb higher, you leave the forests behind and enter the Moorland Zone.


If its clear, this is the first time you get to spot the top of Kili and it's snow capped peak. Your goal is finally in sight.

The porters are as tough as they come. Some walk bare foot, others in slippers like this older man. I was embarrassed to have older men have to carry my bag. But it creates jobs which the people desperately need.

Kilimanjaro has some unique vegetation that can be seen nowhere else.






My guide taking a break.





Day 2 took us to Horombo Hut. The tip of Uhuru Peak starts getting bigger and and bigger, inspiring you to push on. You will know by this point if your body can handle high elevation.
Day two came to an end with an Amazing Sunset above the clouds.

This smile greeted us every morning to let us know our breakfast was ready.

The beginning of the third day you can start feeling the altitude. You are now above 11,000 feet. A clear day gives you an amazing view of the crater.


After a few refreshing Kilimanjaro Beers, I began my third day. They don't sell alcohol on the mountain because it makes you dehydrated and isn't good for your body trying to adapt to the lack of oxygen. But I couldn't miss the opportunity to drink a Kili beer on Mt.Kilimanjaro.

Dinning hall at Horombo Hut, with Mawenze Peak behind



My bad ass hiking partner who was paired with me. She was a school teacher from NY. I was impressed by her toughness. She got a nasty blister on the first day of the hike yet managed to keep pushing on and made it to the top with me.


Day three takes you to the third Climate Zone, by leaving behind vegetation and entering the alpine desert.




Not sure if the picture on the beer can was selected from this location, but it looked similar.


At about the 12,000 t0 15,000 foot level, you feel like you are hiking across the surface of Mars. Excellent views of Mawenzi in the background, the other peak of Kilimanjaro.




Most climbers stop at Kibo Hut for a rest before continuing on early the next morning. We decided not to stop and pushed on to the summit. We wanted to leave the crowds behind.



Trail leading to base of Uhuru Peak. Kibo Hut awaits you at the bottom.


Beginning the hardest part of the climb. At 15,000 ft you start to head up a steep incline, up the last four thousand feet to the crater rim.



Caves give you good places to rest, while trying to summit.


Views on the way up are amazing. Above the 17,000 foot mark. Mawenzi peak seen on the right.


View as you reach the rim of the crater, and enter the snow cap zone. The temperatures drop to below freezing as snow and ice covers most of the ground. My water bottle completely froze solid.




Congratulations you reached Gilman's Point. You are at the top of the rim but not yet at the highest point. Some climbers turn back at this point, receiving a silver certificate for reaching the top. But just suck it up and continue another 1-2 hours around the crater rim and you will be at the highest point. There you will receive a gold certificate and have the bragging rights that you conquered Mt. Kilimanjaro.


View from rim.

View of glacier on north side, as we continued past Gilman's Point. You can see the sign on the right.


Continuing up the crater rim, racing the setting sun, you get amazing views of the glacier on the west side and the African landscape. The number one reason to hike Kili, was to see the glacier at the top before it melted. I wanted to photograph the glacier up close, but lost to the setting sun. I wish I could have camped at the top because the views are spectacular. Was lucky and didn't have any problems with the altitude.

My guide and I at the top of Uhuru Peak. It took me 2 1/2 days to summit.
Wanted to reach the top for sunset, but my guide set a snails pace up the rim. I decided to summit at night on the third day and avoided the big crowds who summit during the morning. We had the entire top of the crater to ourselves. Most hikers wake up early in the morning, to attempt to summit, but that means you could wait in line for 30 min to get your picture with the sign, because of the crowd of hikers all following the same game plan.


Since we had the top to our self, we hung out at the sign for a bit longer than normal. Allowing me to be my usual poser self. It wasn't my first choice, but my guides refusing to take my pic naked and the cold temperatures made plan A a bad idea.

Monday, October 4, 2010


"You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift~ You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong~ You cannot help the poor man by destroying the rich, You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred~ You cannot build character and courage by taking away man's initiative and independence~ You cannot help small men by tearing down big men~ You cannot lift the wage earner by pulling down the wage payer~ You cannot keep out of trouble by spending more than your income~ You cannot establish security on borrowed money~ You cannot help men permanently by doing for them what they will not do for themselves. " ~ Abraham Lincoln

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Top 10 Game Parks to Photograph in Eastern and Southern Africa



10. Namib Naukluft Park, Namibia

This park is located along the western part of Namibia. Thought to be the oldest desert in the world and one of the driest, it's landscape though devoid of larger African animals like the elephant and giraffe, is an amazing place to photograph. Even though it's a desert there is beauty everywhere. The park is home to the largest drifting sand dunes in the world, some reaching 1000 ft high, which creates beautiful ripples and knife blade edges that cast cool shadows. The orange rust colored dunes makes for a interesting contrast with the blue sky as well. Make sure to hike dune 45 to watch the sunset.








9. Mgahinga National Park, Uganda


Located in the southwest tip of Uganda, along the slopes of one of three extinct volcanoes, Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, borders Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Mgahinga connects to two other parks making up the Virunga Conservation Area, that was set aside to protect the last remaining mountain gorillas. Parc National des Volcans in Rwanda and Parc National des Virunga in the DRC, are home to the majority of the estimated 700 remaining mountain gorillas.
The volcanoes make for a stunning back drop and add to the mystique as you hike up their slopes through thick rainforest, in search of the gorillas. While travel through the rain forest can be slow and challenging, it is worth it when you come face to face with a male silverback gorilla and look into their soft brown eyes. It is an experience you will never forget.




8. Etosha National Park, Namibia

Etosha meaning "great white place," because of the big white mineral pan that takes up 25% of the park, is a beautiful place to photograph animals because of the unique white back drop. Located in Northern Namibia, this park is one of the best National Parks in Southern Africa. The park is off the tourist grid so you will not feel overcrowded. Camping in one of the three campgrounds within the park will leave you with an amazing African experience. Lay in your tent and enjoy listing to the many sounds of predators hunting in the dark. Great place to see the unique Oryx.










7. Okavango Delta, Botswana


World's largest inland delta and one of the most amazing parks in all of Africa. If you want to see one of the last unspoiled places left in Africa, this is a must. Get transported into the park by mokoro,(wooden dug out canoe) and sit back and soak up the amazing diversity of wildlife and crystal clear waters of the wetlands. It's even possible to drink right from the water. Bush camping is one of the highlights, as you get the chance to have wildlife walk right past your tent. Great chance to get up close to hippos and African Bush Elephants. If you want everything in one park you can't miss this gem. See it before development spoils this place.






6. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

One of the most famous game parks in the world. If you time it right and visit this park during February to June you could get lucky enough to witness one of earths last large animal migrations. Around a million Zebras and Wildebeest migrate through the Serengeti, followed by more predators than you will see anywhere else in the world. This park has everything you want in a game park, except the crowds which can dampen the experience. If you get lucky enough to watch a lion walk past your safari vehicle with no other vehicles in sight it will capture your heart and make you realize why this place is so famous. Watching a lion, leopard, or cheetah stalk its prey though the tall grass, will get your heartbeat pumping, as well as make for great photos.






5. Chobe Reserve, Botswana

The Chobe River is an amazing place to photograph hippos, elephants, and crocodiles. The Chobe River makes for a beautiful river cruise as well and will allow you to view hundreds of elephants from the water. Bring along your own alcohol and sit back and have fun photographing wildlife from the river. Although elephants have overrun this park damaging the forests, if you want to get good pics of elephants this is your place. Lions, leopards, and Hyenas are seen in large numbers, so make sure to camp within the park to get the best chance of seeing them. Only place I saw a honey badger. May to October is the dry period so animals will congregate along the river in large numbers.






4. Kruger National Park, South Africa

Located along the eastern border of South Africa, Kruger is one of the largest parks in Africa, and one of the best parks to view a large verity of African animals, such as the disappearing wild dog. If your lucky you may see some of the large tuskers roaming the park. Take time to visit this park for it's size give you one of the best remaining chances of seeing the big five. Though the dry landscape isn't visually appealing the chance of photographing leopards, wild dogs, and rhinos will leave you wanting to never leave. The lodges and private game parks bordering the park are also amazing.




3. Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Like a smaller version of the Ngorongoro Crater this park is tucked into the rim of an ancient volcanic crater. Though pretty small in size, this park gives you a large chance to photograph both white and black rhinos. Probably the best chance to photograph rhinos in all of Africa. I saw over 20 rhinos on one game drive. You have a great chance of seeing the resident leopards and lions as well. Those interested in bird life, will fall in love with the sight of thousands of pink flamingos and other birds which can be seen here year round.






2. Masai Mara Reserve, Kenya

Travel here between Late July and Early August and you will experience the largest migration of land animals in the world, as they make their way north from the Serengeti. If you get real lucky you may witness the migration crossing the Mara River and dodging the huge crocodiles waiting to ambush them. One of my favorite places to photograph, has the animals numbers of the Serengeti, but with a more photogenic landscape. The sight as your safari vehicle drives through a sea of Zebras and wildebeest numbering in the tens of thousand, covering the rolling hills is an experience that will leave you breathless.








1 Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania

Ngorongoro Crater is my favorite game park in Africa. The moment you reach the crater edge you are completely overwhelmed by the beauty of this park. This park alone makes you want to return to Africa over and over. The steep cliffs and lake in the middle are a photographers dream. The park's crater is home to large herds of wildebeest and Zebras. When you drive down into the crater you enter a breathtaking world that you hope stays untouched by man forever. Stand with your head out the safari vehicle and have fun viewing the wildlife within the walls. Huge big male Tuskers are often seen. You will leave this park with tears in your eyes and a hope Africa continues to protect places like this and finds a way to hold back the increasing human population.







Visit this link

http://bmontalbo.zenfolio.com/p65454668

or my eastern Africa Album on my website to view photographs from these parks and other places I fell in love with while traveling to eastern Africa.

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Trans African Adventure



Click on map to zoom in.


Soon I will embark on my 7 month trans-African expedition. I will first begin by traveling to Iceland to photograph the beautiful landscapes and geothermal activity. Then I will make my way to Morocco where I will meander overland through 14 western African countries, across the Sahara Desert, through jungles, and down one lane dirt roads that take an entire day to travel 10 miles. The trip will conclude in the beautiful coastal town of Cape Town, South Africa.

Like every adventure I go on, the closer the approach of the departure of this trip the more excited and giddy I become. Though for the first time, I have to admit, I am slightly more nervous about this trip. The length of this trip, the list of dangers, the political instability of these countries keeps me up at night daydreaming about how much I don't know about where I will be going and trying to think of what it will be like.
This trip has been a year in the making both planning and saving up for it. People keep asking about my motivation for this trip. Well, it came from my eastern African trip back in 08 when I was stood at the border crossing between Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, unable to cross and was intimidated by how many border guards with AK 47's stood guard. It looked like we were entering a military base. There was this sense that crossing over and heading down the dirty road disappearing into the dense jungle was taking us into a whole new experience and higher level of adventure. It immediately grabbed my curiosity like some kid with matches and gasoline. Western Africa is full of rare wildlife, beautiful cultures, amazing landscapes, and is about as raw a place left on earth.
Spontaneity brings excitement to my travels. I usually have a game plan to keep things organized but I never want to know that much about where I'm going. I love being surprised by the thrill of discovering something for the first time.

Like any photographer I strive to share parts of the world that are rarely seen by most travelers. For the first time I am going to include a blog so people can follow along with my daily challenges and experiences. It will be clearly obvious that writing isn't my forte, so I apologize before hand for my lack of grammar and spelling. These posts will be raw emotions from my trip, which will probably included lots of profanity and stories that most might find offensive, so I apologize for that as well. My writing is like my stories I tell around the campfire, I am very passionate about certain things in life. I'm easily stimulated by small things such as sunsets and thunderstorms. The more I travel the more depressed I get about how fast the world is changing and I want to experience it before mankind steam rolls it for personal gain.

I invite you to follow along with my adventure. I want to touch that adventurous side in everyone. Get you to get out and create your own amazing experiences. Life is like an unwritten book, where each day you get to write by choice how the story unfolds.

Someone asked me recently that I was crazy for doing this trip, that is was "crazy dangerous." I told them, well then you should follow along on my blog because it should make for some serious entertainment.
"Unless your living life on the edge, you’re taking up too much room." -Unknown.

If you would like to contribute to my trip please visit my photography website.